“Can I take you a picture?”
That’s what the guy with a DSLR told me while I was sitting on the seawall somewhere in the boulevard. I declined. Not because I felt uncomfortable but because I was so shy. He was taking photos of random people for his Facebook page. Apparently, he is a content creator in Dapitan.
He showed me some of the photos he took during that day and I was in awe of how he was able to capture the emotions of random people on the street that day. That’s where our conversation started. Eventually, I said yes when he asked me again if he could take a photo of me.
My trip to Dapitan was very spontaneous. I was looking at the Philippine map I shaded from that viral post where people are coloring the provinces they have visited. I noticed that most of the provinces I visited were from Luzon and Visayas. I haven’t explored much of Mindanao. I got the idea of visiting Zamboanga Del Norte because a friend of mine just made a visit very recently. She also mentioned that Dapitan was very easy to explore.
Without a second thought, I filed my vacation leave and I booked my flight to Dipolog. I was very ecstatic about this trip for two reasons: another province in Mindanao will be ticked off from my bucket list and finally, I will be able to follow the footsteps of our national hero during his exile and how he spent his last remaining years in this sleepy side of Zamboanga back then. Talking about geography, Zamboanga Del Norte serves as the gateway to explore other provinces in western Mindanao. Dapitan, on the other hand is located in the northernmost tip of Zamboanga Peninsula and is known as the Shrine City.
Upon arrival at the airport, I immediately hired a tricycle going to the bus terminal (P50 fare) bound to Dapitan. Luckily, I was able to catch the bus that was about to leave the terminal. The bus fare is only thirty five pesos going to Dapitan which is about a 30 minute ride more or less.
I alighted at Maria Clara Street and walked towards my booked accommodation, Travelbee. It is an ancestral house which they converted into a hotel. The lobby gave a homey feel. The staff was very warm and accommodating. The hotel is also located near some of the historic sites where Rizal spent probably most of his day during his exile.
After resting for an hour, I prepared and started exploring the nearby tourist spots. My first stop was Balay Hamoy. It is the house of Don Mariano Hamoy, a former municipal officer who became Rizal’s friend and abaca trading business partner. History said that they both enjoyed playing chess in this house. Today, Balay Hamoy is now a museum, however prior coordination is required to enter this ancestral house.
I briskly walked towards the plaza to see what it looked like. In a marker, the modern plaza was developed based on the plan that Rizal made while he was in Dapitan. Perhaps, this is one of the cleanest plaza I’ve seen and it really serves its purpose which is to host and gather people together. I saw some students studying, practicing and playing around.
However, there is one particular spot in the plaza that I really wanted to see, the relief map of Mindanao which history said was his first contribution to this town. The map is now considered a National Cultural Treasure. During that time, only the educated and rich people had access to maps, so this contribution gave access to all, particularly the locals of Dapitan. It is located just in front of the Church of St. James The Greater. This church was originally constructed in 1871 and was completed through the help of Dapitenos by rendering voluntary labor and supplying local materials for free. There’s one part of the church near the bell tower’s staircase that caught my attention during my visit. It was a marker that mentions where Rizal usually stood to hear the Sunday mass. I took a moment to stand there as well and think what Rizal was thinking every time he was there.
After visiting the church, I asked around for the easiest route to go to the landing site of Rizal which is located somewhere along the sunset boulevard. Punto De Disembargo de Rizal en Dapitan is a shrine to commemorate Rizal’s arrival in Dapitan on the night of July 17, 1892. Heavily guarded, this was where their ship docked.
“Ang astig ni Rizal!”
That was actually what I uttered when I saw the shrine. This is perhaps the best sculpture of Rizal that I’ve seen. His stance overpowered the guards surrounding him as if saying, “I’m gonna lead.”
I sat around where most locals were hanging out and just enjoyed the moment. Unfortunately, it was too cloudy. I was about to leave when I met R, a hobbyist/photographer who asked me if he could take a photo of me. I refused at first but eventually, I said yes. He gave me some tips on what to see and do in Dapitan.
**The photo that R took.
Just when I thought the day was over, R and his friends invited me to go out and drink. I was surprised that night life in Dapitan was very much alive. There are bars and cafes along the boulevard that offer good entertainment. Or you can just pitch a tent, set up a hammock or beach blanket and enjoy a good conversation with friends with a bottle of beer along the beach.
The next day, I woke up late with a heavy headache and I missed the hotel’s breakfast. I was so happy when the hotel staff told me that they will still serve my breakfast for free.
Many of us didn’t know that Rizal won a lottery when he was in exile. He used his winnings to purchase land in Dapitan. That land was located in Brgy. Talisay where the Rizal Park and Shrine is situated. It has a thick forest where Rizal used to explore and study. He collected plant and animal samples that he then sent to his friends in Europe to study. There were actually animals named after him: (a frog, Rhacophorus rizali; a lizard, Draco rizali and beetles, Spathomeles rizali and Apogonia rizali.
Another interesting feature of this park are the replicas of nipas that served as his house, clinic and lodging of his students and patients. These nipa huts were in different shapes to remind his students about geometry, one of the subjects that he taught his students. Another interesting discovery I found out was the dam he created that supplies water to his home and the community. Located in the far end of the park, just before the outdoor amphitheater is a huge rock where Rizal wrote one of his famous poems, Mi Retiro (My Retreat). In this land was also the place where he met the love of his life, Josephine Bracken, the stepdaughter of George Taufer, one of his patients during that time. Their love started and blossomed in this place until the day they left Dapitan. The entire area is now part of the Jose Rizal Memorial Protected Landscape.
On my third day, I planned to visit Dakak, but it was raining very hard that morning. So I decided to stay at the hotel until it stopped raining. That’s where I learned that I can rent a bike from the hotel for only P50/day. That’s where I got the idea to bike around Dapitan. The city is so small that you could visit all the famous tourist spots in a day. Exploring it by bike is actually a potential tourism activity or campaign to encourage people to bike while following the footsteps of Rizal and learning about his life and contributions to the society.
My first stop was Ilihan Hill. I actually attempted to visit this on my first day, but I got lost. Finally, I was able to find the trail near the church. You can visit the peak by just following the stairs for around 10-15 minutes, depending on how fast you pace. It will give you a glance of downtown going to Rizal Park and Shrine.
After trekking the hill, I decided to go back to Talisay and trek the viewing deck located at the protected landscape to see the other side of the city. I asked around how I could get there and the locals told me that it was very easy, just follow the trails and I will be able to see it. To my surprise, there are actually many trails. I tried both but I was directed to different trails. I actually passed by the dam and met a Lolo and Lola who were doing their laundry that time. I also reached a small community and they told me I was on the wrong route. I tried to go back and follow another trail but it was getting dark (because of the huge trees) and I was quite tired so I decided to abort my plan.
Along the way was also a treat. I saw some old houses and buildings still standing, including the ancestral house turned tourism office of Dapitan. All the names of the street were also interesting because it was named after the people related to Rizal (Josephine Bracken St. etc) and his works ( Noli Me Tangere St. and El Filibusterismo St.).
I went back downtown to eat. I bought halo-halo along the road. Hey, let’s support local vendors! I also tried some cafes like The Local Host and Drip Republik. I arrived at the boulevard just in time for the sunset. And I must say, I was presented with the best view of sunset on my last day in Dapitan.
I sat and observed what the locals were doing. That’s where I realized that’s what I have been missing all along. To halt and appreciate the simplicity of life. I have been so busy with my work and personal life in Manila that I forgot to take a break. This trip to Dapitan, Zamboanga Del Norte reminded me, more than just ticking off this province on a bucket list, to take things slowly sometimes, breathe and appreciate every moment of life.
Will I still go back? It’s an easy YES!
SUGGESTED TRAVEL ITINERARY
While Dapitan is a small town and could be explored in day, I suggest that you take your travel slow and spend more than a day. Here’s a sample itinerary:
DAY 1
Arrival at Dipolog Airport ( Tricycle fare going to the bus terminal: P50/pax)
Travel to Dapitan (Bus fare to Dapitan (P35/pax)
Check in at the hotel
Explore town plaza (Balay Hamoy, St. James The Greater Church, Relief Map of Mindanao, Ilihan Hill)
Sunset Boulevard ( Rizal Landing Site)
DAY 2
Day tour or spend a night at Dakak
DAY 3 (Bike Tour)
Visit Rizal Park and Shrine
Trek the viewing deck
Sunset Boulevard
Enjoy!