Ilocos Norte: Sand Dunes, Beach and History

Visiting Ilocos Norte marks the start of the second half of my goal in exploring all the eighty two provinces of the Philippines.

Actually, this is not my first visit in Ilocos Norte. In 2020, just before the lockdown, I was able to go here twice for a business trip. So I didn’t count that visit as part of my #PHProvinces journey because I wasn’t not able to explore the place.

Since I had a time and my workload wasn’t that heavy that week, I decided to book a flight via Philippine Airlines going to Laoag. I can’t remember the last time I departed at NAIA Terminal II, so I was so surprised about some changes I saw. They added new furniture and mini garden. According to the Department of Tourism, they want to showcase how beautiful the Philippines is and how talented the Filipinos are thru this project. The solihiya panels, furniture and lamps added a warm and cozy vibe while the mini gardens gave a “fresh” feel of the area. I sat in one of the new lounging areas to charge my phone. Since I arrived early for my flight, I worked on some emails and then played an online games to kill time. Just recently, I discovered a cool website that offers a variety of online games while looking for a gift to my niece who loves to play LEGO. That’s where I saw LEGO City Adventures Build and Protect which I had fun playing in the past few days building my own virtual city using virtual Lego pieces and characters. A few minutes after, we were called for boarding and after an hour, I landed at Laoag Airport

I also booked my stay at the same hotel where we stayed before which was Viven Hotel. It’s a decent hotel in the area and the location for me gave so much convenience because it was just a few steps the mall and other business centers. I rested in my first day as the coming days would be packed with activities that would exhaust the energy of your thirty-plus uncle. :p

Day one.

Suba Paoay Sand Dunes. This is actually what I was excited for this trip. I’ve been looking forward to try this experience because I find it thrilling. The activity cost P2500/truck for a maximum of 5 pax. They are open as early as 4AM until 7PM. Best time to go is either early in the morning or in time for the sunset. We arrived late morning so it was freaking hot. The activity would last for an hour where you get to try sandboarding, visiting installation arts by Filipino artists like Leeroy New and Raphael David, and of course the thrilling ride along the uneven slopes of the dunes.

Right after the sand dunes, we visited the picturesque St. Augustine Church or famously called the Paoay Church. This is the church in our history books with a distinct architecture, huge buttresses and an interesting façade that somehow looks like a triangle. There are also cafes and restaurants within the complex, mostly are located in front of the church like Don Empanada, Strasbourg Café, and Papa Nards House of Chicken Inasal. Don’t forget to try bagnet and Ilocos empanada.

Right after our lunch at Paoay, we then went to Malacanang of the North (Balay Ti Amiannan). For an entrance fee of ten pesos, you get to visit the former residence of the Marcos Family. It is now a presidential museum displaying some paintings and remaining family possessions. Some were labeled with “Pls. Do Not Touch” signage on a masking tape. :p

Beach time! But before that, we visited first the Cape Bojeador Lighthouse which is also in my bucket list. I could let go some places in my Ilocos Norte itinerary but not this one. Aside from the visiting all the provinces, I would also like to visit all the centuries-old lighthouse in the country. What impressive about this lighthouse is that it is still serving its purpose and is well-maintained. The beam is now coming from a solar-powered modern electric lamp. There is also a mini museum inside. Tour guides can take a nice photo of you in some of the IG-worth spots within the area. Don’t forget to tip them after. There is a pasalubong center there where you can buy souvenirs. For me, they offer the cheapest pasalubongs here as compared to other stores in Ilocos Norte.

Our next stop is Kapurpurawan White Rock Formation. This famous rock formation is one of the must see in Ilocos Norte. But you have to walk more or less 20 minutes before you can reach the dedicated viewing deck. You can also rent a horse if you do not want to walk. Tourists are no longer allowed to come closer for safety reasons. Actually, it is really best viewed from a distance. Aside from the rock formation, you can already see some windmills in the area.

After the Kapurpurawan, we went to the famous Blue Lagoon. Along the way, you can stop and take a snap at Timmangtang Rock and Bantam Abot Cave. At the Blue Lagoon, only small resorts, hotels and homestays are currently operating when we visited. The huge resort complex with lame installations was still closed.

 

Final stop for this Ilocos Norte trip was the Patapat Viaduct. The most scenic and most photographed viaduct in the country I guess. It became a popular destination but you just have to be very careful when walking or crossing the road as it is still a busy road. After Patapat Viaduct, you will pass by a grotto and spring if you are going to Cagayan.

We spent a night in Tuguegarao City before our flight back to Manila the next morning. Don’t forget to try their famous pancit batil patong!

SAMPLE ITINERARY IN ILOCOS NORTE
Flight Manila to Laoag via Philippine Airlines or Cebu Pacific
Check in at Viven Hotel (I used this link for discounted rates)

DAY 1

1. Suba Paoay Sand Dunes
2500/Truck max of 5
Opens at 4am to 7pm (Best time to go early morning or sunset, bring drinking water)

2. Paoay Church (St. Augustine Church)/ Lunchtime
*Where to Eat
a. Don Empanada
b. Strasbourg Cafe
c. Ilocos Coffee Plus
d. Papa Nards House of Chicken Inasal
e. Elias ( pasalubongs)

3. Malacanang of the North
P10/head
9am – 430pm

4. Fort Ilocandia Resort and Casino

5. Laoag City Proper

a. Sinking Bell Tower
b. St. William’s Cathedral
c. Aurora Park (Abolition of Tabacco Monopoly Monument)
d. Ilocos Norte Provincial Capitol

DAY 2

1. Cape Bojeador Lighthouse
Walk or trike (P10/head)
Entrance fee P10/head
Souvenir shops
8am – 5pm only

2. Kapurpurawan Rock Formation
P20/head
P100 Horseback riding

3. Bangui Windmills

4. Blue Lagoon
10 pesos/head

Other attractions
– Timmangtang Rock
– Bantam Abot Cave

DAY 3

5. Kabigan Waterfalls

6. Patapat Viaduct

7. Paraiso ni Anton ( Kalbaryo-Patapat Natural Park)
Roadside attraction, cascading spring water and grotto.

You can also visit some places in Cagayan if you are planning to fly back via Tuguegarao Airport.

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Dapitan: Zamboanga Del Norte’s Stunner

“Can I take you a picture?”

That’s what the guy with a DSLR told me while I was sitting on the seawall somewhere in the boulevard. I declined. Not because I felt uncomfortable but because I was so shy. He was taking photos of random people for his Facebook page. Apparently, he is a content creator in Dapitan.

He showed me some of the photos he took during that day and I was in awe of how he was able to capture the emotions of random people on the street that day. That’s where our conversation started. Eventually, I said yes when he asked me again if he could take a photo of me.

My trip to Dapitan was very spontaneous. I was looking at the Philippine map I shaded from that viral post where people are coloring the provinces they have visited. I noticed that most of the provinces I visited were from Luzon and Visayas. I haven’t explored much of Mindanao. I got the idea of visiting Zamboanga Del Norte because a friend of mine just made a visit very recently. She also mentioned that Dapitan was very easy to explore.

Without a second thought, I filed my vacation leave and I booked my flight to Dipolog. I was very ecstatic about this trip for two reasons: another province in Mindanao will be ticked off from my bucket list and finally, I will be able to follow the footsteps of our national hero during his exile and how he spent his last remaining years in this sleepy side of Zamboanga back then. Talking about geography, Zamboanga Del Norte serves as the gateway to explore other provinces in western Mindanao. Dapitan, on the other hand is located in the northernmost tip of Zamboanga Peninsula and is known as the Shrine City.

Upon arrival at the airport, I immediately hired a tricycle going to the bus terminal (P50 fare) bound to Dapitan. Luckily, I was able to catch the bus that was about to leave the terminal. The bus fare is only thirty five pesos going to Dapitan which is about a 30 minute ride more or less.

I alighted at Maria Clara Street and walked towards my booked accommodation, Travelbee. It is an ancestral house which they converted into a hotel. The lobby gave a homey feel. The staff was very warm and accommodating. The hotel is also located near some of the historic sites where Rizal spent probably most of his day during his exile.

After resting for an hour, I prepared and started exploring the nearby tourist spots. My first stop was Balay Hamoy. It is the house of Don Mariano Hamoy, a former municipal officer who became Rizal’s friend and abaca trading business partner. History said that they both enjoyed playing chess in this house. Today, Balay Hamoy is now a museum, however prior coordination is required to enter this ancestral house.

I briskly walked towards the plaza to see what it looked like. In a marker, the modern plaza was developed based on the plan that Rizal made while he was in Dapitan. Perhaps, this is one of the cleanest plaza I’ve seen and it really serves its purpose which is to host and gather people together. I saw some students studying, practicing and playing around.

However, there is one particular spot in the plaza that I really wanted to see, the relief map of Mindanao which history said was his first contribution to this town. The map is now considered a National Cultural Treasure. During that time, only the educated and rich people had access to maps, so this contribution gave access to all, particularly the locals  of Dapitan.  It is located just in front of  the Church of St. James The Greater. This church was originally constructed in 1871 and was completed through the help of Dapitenos by rendering voluntary labor and supplying local materials for free. There’s one part of the church near the bell tower’s staircase that caught my attention during my visit. It was a marker that mentions where Rizal usually stood to hear the Sunday mass. I took a moment to stand there as well and think what Rizal was thinking every time he was there.

After visiting the church, I asked around for the easiest route to go to the landing site of Rizal which is located somewhere along the sunset boulevard. Punto De Disembargo de Rizal en Dapitan is a shrine to commemorate Rizal’s arrival in Dapitan on the night of July 17, 1892. Heavily guarded, this was where their ship docked. 

“Ang astig ni Rizal!” 

That was actually what I uttered when I saw the shrine. This is perhaps the best sculpture of Rizal that I’ve seen. His stance overpowered the guards surrounding him as if saying, “I’m gonna lead.”

I sat around where most locals were hanging out and just enjoyed the moment. Unfortunately, it was too cloudy. I was about to leave when I met R, a hobbyist/photographer who asked me if he could take a photo of me. I refused at first but eventually, I said yes. He gave me some tips on what to see and do in Dapitan. 

**The photo that R took.

Just when I thought the day was over, R and his friends invited me to go out and drink. I was surprised that night life in Dapitan was very much alive. There are bars and cafes along the boulevard that offer good entertainment. Or you can just pitch a tent, set up a hammock or beach blanket and enjoy a good conversation with friends with a bottle of beer along the beach. 

The next day, I woke up late with a heavy headache and I missed the hotel’s breakfast. I was so happy when the hotel staff told me that they will still serve my breakfast for free.

Many of us didn’t know that Rizal won a lottery when he was in exile. He used his winnings to purchase land in Dapitan. That land was located in Brgy. Talisay where the Rizal Park and Shrine is situated. It has a thick forest where Rizal used to explore and study. He collected plant and animal samples that he then sent to his friends in Europe to study. There were actually animals named after him: (a frog, Rhacophorus rizali; a lizard, Draco rizali and beetles, Spathomeles rizali and Apogonia rizali.

Another interesting feature of this park are the replicas of nipas that served as his house, clinic and lodging of his students and patients. These nipa huts were in different shapes to remind his students about geometry, one of the subjects that he taught his students. Another interesting discovery I found out was the dam he created that supplies water to his home and the community. Located in the far end of the park, just before the outdoor amphitheater is a huge rock where Rizal wrote one of his famous poems, Mi Retiro (My Retreat). In this land was also the place where he met the love of his life, Josephine Bracken, the stepdaughter of George Taufer, one of his patients during that time. Their love started and blossomed in this place until the day they left Dapitan. The entire area is now part of the Jose Rizal Memorial Protected Landscape

On my third day, I planned to visit Dakak, but it was raining very hard that morning. So I decided to stay at the hotel until it stopped raining. That’s where I learned that I can rent a bike from the hotel for only P50/day. That’s where I got the idea to bike around Dapitan. The city is so small that you could visit all the famous tourist spots in a day. Exploring it by bike is actually a potential tourism activity or campaign to encourage people to bike while following the footsteps of Rizal and learning about his life and contributions to the society.

My first stop was Ilihan Hill. I actually attempted to visit this on my first day, but I got lost. Finally, I was able to find the trail near the church. You can visit the peak by just following the stairs for around 10-15 minutes, depending on how fast you pace. It will give you a glance of downtown going to Rizal Park and Shrine.

After trekking the hill, I decided to go back to Talisay and trek the viewing deck located at the protected landscape to see the other side of the city. I asked around how I could get  there and the locals told me that it was very easy, just follow the trails and I will be able to see it. To my surprise, there are actually many trails. I tried both but I was directed to different trails. I actually passed by the dam and met a Lolo and Lola who were doing their laundry that time. I also reached a small community and they told me I was on the wrong route. I tried to go back and follow another trail but it was getting dark (because of the huge trees) and I was quite tired so I decided to abort my plan.

Along the way was also a treat. I saw some old houses and buildings still standing, including the ancestral house turned tourism office of Dapitan. All the names of the street were also interesting because it was named after the people related to Rizal (Josephine Bracken St. etc) and his works ( Noli Me Tangere St. and El Filibusterismo St.).

I went back downtown to eat. I bought halo-halo along the road. Hey, let’s support local vendors! I also tried some cafes like The Local Host and Drip Republik. I arrived at the boulevard just in time for the sunset. And I must say, I was presented with the best view of sunset on my last day in Dapitan. 

I sat and observed what the locals were doing. That’s where I realized that’s what I have been missing all along. To halt and appreciate the simplicity of life. I have been so busy with my work and personal life in Manila that I forgot to take a break. This trip to Dapitan, Zamboanga Del Norte reminded me, more than just ticking off this province on a bucket list, to take things slowly sometimes,  breathe and appreciate every moment of life.

Will I still go back? It’s an easy YES!

 

SUGGESTED TRAVEL ITINERARY

While Dapitan is a small town and could be explored in day, I suggest that you take your travel slow and spend more than a day. Here’s a sample itinerary:

DAY 1
Arrival at Dipolog Airport ( Tricycle fare going to the bus terminal: P50/pax)
Travel to Dapitan (Bus fare to Dapitan (P35/pax)
Check in at the hotel
Explore town plaza (Balay Hamoy, St. James The Greater Church, Relief Map of Mindanao, Ilihan Hill)
Sunset Boulevard ( Rizal Landing Site)

DAY 2
Day tour or spend a night at Dakak

DAY 3 (Bike Tour)
Visit Rizal Park and Shrine
Trek the viewing deck
Sunset Boulevard

Enjoy!

#DapitanTravelBlog2023

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Travel While You Are Still Capable

Traveling is one of the most uplifting experiences that we humans can do in our life. Sure, it’s not always an affordable endeavor, but going out and exploring places often proves to be more fulfilling than some of the things that our world can offer.

Travel is a form of education, except that it doesn’t happen within the 4 walls of a classroom. If you want to widen the scope of your understanding of the world, one of the best ways to do this is to immerse yourself in this beautiful world we are living in.

Realizing this at a young age is truly eye-opening. Here are the reasons why:

1. You’ll get to know more about your own country.

Young people often begin their wanderlust life by exploring their country of origin. It is often a great place to start, considering how different communities can be even in very small countries. When you travel to other places in your own country, you’ll become exposed to other people’s way of life—the joys and struggles they face everyday and how they deal with these kinds of matters in their own way.

2. You’ll see what life is like in other countries.

As you begin to explore other countries, you’ll also begin to see what people are like in those places. Every destination is an opportunity for you to learn about the beautiful things found in those places that you can also bring home to your own country. These can be ideas, values or culture among many other things.

3. You’ll be able to distinguish between luxuries and necessities.

This is especially true after you’ve been to struggling communities. If you think that you need new clothes, gadgets, and lots of money to be able to live a great life, you’ll begin to understand that, at the most basic level, you actually need only a few things to make you happy. Relationships, kindness and experiences are some of those that really matter.

4. You’ll realize that it’s not all about you

When you go to other places, you will learn that many of the things you thought were the most important things in the world are actually trivial matters for other people. For example, people living hundreds or thousands of kilometers away from your hometown are likely not to care about the battles being waged by your city’s politicians. It’s a humbling experience to know that there are places out there whose worlds revolve around other matters, and certainly not around the ones going on inside your home, on your street, in your city, or even in your country. People, things and events around you have their own story to tell.

5. You’ll learn more about yourself.

Finally, you might think that you already know yourself very well, but the truth is that there is still so much to discover within yourself! And you won’t really experience this unless you get to go out of your comfort zone and realize what you are capable of. Going out there to experience new things is one of the best ways you can do to get to know yourself better.

Traveling is a way of life that could really make a positive impact on you as a person. So start saving and plan your next adventure.

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